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Kashmir Diary: “It’s tear gas. Can’t you feel it?”

One evening, when I got back to the hotel, I got a call from a friend asking if I had managed to reach safely....

Kashmir Diary: Pandits who never left

Early in the morning, I walked to the Barbar Shah area of Srinagar to meet a Kashmiri Pandit. He is one of the fore...
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Kashmir Diary: Treating the dead eyes

The day began with a visit to the Shri Maharaja Hari Singh Hospital (SMHS) in Srinagar. This is where most of the pellet gun...

Kashmir Diary: “We want a dignified existence”

I'm starting to get used to life without mobile internet. It is not that bad. There are a few adjustments to be made. I...

Kashmir Diary: The media in Valley

A good night's sleep under the belt, I headed to the Press Enclave in Srinagar to talk to a video journalist who has been...

Kashmir Diary: A Friday in Srinagar city

21 October 2016 I did not manage good sleep on my first night in Srinagar, as I twisted, turned and tried to roll myself in...

Kashmir Diary: For my grandmother and the Valley she loved

On 5 October, when I mentioned to my maternal grandmother that I might be going to Kashmir soon, she told me, “Please take me...

The “Shaking Kashmir” earthquake

This morning when I read the headline “Prepare for earthquake 8.0 & above”, my whole life flashed in front of my eyes. I cherished...

Five recipes from a Kashmiri kitchen

1. Sundried Turnips with Lamb (Gogjje-aare ti Maaz) Apart from being stunningly beautiful, and green, and lush, and surrounded by towering mountains, with lakes and...

Modernity and the gender bias

The nation building has remained a big task for the seven modern nation states of South Asia as all of them inherited state system...